Last Updated on February 18, 2025
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Puerto Rico is a popular island getaway for many Americans, as it’s relatively close and easy to travel to. But while many people visit the main island, just a fraction of them venture out to Culebra and Vieques, Puerto Rico’s smaller islands. Those who make it to Vieques, do a quick visit for the Bioluminescence Bay, which is what the island is mostly known for. But despite its small size, there are quite a few things to do in Vieques, that you can spend a few days and stay busy.
Just like Culebra, that I visited a couple of years before, Vieques is very laid back, uncrowded and not commercialized. I’d say it’s a destination that is very much off the beaten path. Bio Bay is the most popular attraction, but the island of Vieques is also where you will find the best beaches in Puerto Rico. They are beautiful, secluded and often empty. When it comes to top beach destinations, Vieques is definitely up there.
So, if you are looking to spend a few days on a Caribbean island, that is quiet, lush and boasts natural beauty, you might want to visit Vieques. And if you do, here is all you need to know about planning your trip, from how to get there, where to stay to top things to do in Vieques and some essential tips.
About Vieques
Vieques is a small island located about 8 miles east of Puerto Rico. It’s accessible from the main island by ferry or plane. There are two main towns on the island, Esperanza in the South and Isabel II in the Northern part and it’s about a 15-minute drive between them.
For more than 60 years, Vieques, just like Culebra, was used by US military for training and bomb testing. When they left in 2003, lands used by US Navy were preserved as National Wildlife Refuge, which accounts for 60% of the island. You can find some of the best Vieques beaches there, many trails, mangrove forests and bays. The eastern part of it however is not open to public, due to many unexploded bombs. When you visit, make sure to stay out of those red zones, that are clearly marked.
How to get to Vieques, PR
To get to Vieques, you first need to get to the main island of Puerto Rico. Once there, you can either take a ferry or fly.
Getting to Vieques by ferry
The San Juan-Vieques ferry leaves from Ceiba, which is on the northwestern part of Puerto Rico, more than one hour drive from San Juan. The one-way ferry ticket costs $2 and it’s about a 30-minute journey. This is the cheap way of getting to Vieques, but since residents have priority, there’s always a risk it might be full, and you won’t be able to get on the boat you want. They do set aside a small number of tickets for online booking, so I highly recommend pre-booking it.
Getting to Vieques by plane
The other way of getting to Vieques is by flying. It’s a 30-minute flight from San Juan, and you can catch a flight 2-3 times a day from either the San Juan Airport (SJU) with Cape Air or from Isla Grande (SIG) with Vieques Airlink or Air Flamenco. Isla Grande is a tiny airport, not far from the main San Juan airport, and flights from there are cheaper, so it’s worth the quick Uber/Taxi ride, if you have time to transfer. There also flights from Ceiba Airport (RVR) with Vieques Airlink and Air Flamenco, and it takes just 15 minutes to get to Vieques from there.
The planes flying to Vieques are all small, 8-10 seaters and have a weight limit. When you check in, they weigh every single piece of luggage you have, and you will need to pay extra if it goes over the allowed limit. Every passenger has to step on the scale as well.
Flying to Vieques is very convenient and you get some amazing views along the way. I especially loved the flight back and the views of Old San Juan from above. Even though the flights are not the cheapest, if you factor in the cost of taxi to/from Ceiba (about $100 each way) where you catch the ferry, it’s not that much more.
If you are flying in, it’s best to pre-arrange a taxi to get you from the airport to your hotel. You can download the 741 app, which is like the Uber of Vieques and easily book your ride through it.
How to get around Vieques
Vieques is 21 miles (34 km) long and 3-4 miles (6.5 km) wide and having a car is necessary if you want to explore the island. While you might see some people on golf carts, those are only good for short distances. Unlike in Culebra, where you can get away with a golf cart to cover the island, in Vieques it will take forever to get anywhere. You also won’t be able to get to many off the beaten path beaches and spots.
Renting a car, preferably a Jeep, is the best way to get around Vieques. You’ll need it to access some of the best and secluded beaches, as well to explore the island. You can get away with a regular car on the main streets, but it will be hard to navigate the bumpy roads, that lead to many of the beaches and spots worth seeing. If you are traveling in high season, I recommend booking your vehicle in advance. Renting a car in Vieques can be a bit pricey, but it’s absolutely necessary to be able to see the best of the island.
We rented a Ford Bronco from Maritza’s Car Rental and can recommend them. The main location is mid island, and they recently opened another one in Isabel II, right in town. They have a shuttle service, so contact them if you need to be picked up from your hotel, ferry or airport.
Car rentals in Vieques are very strict about wet seats, so try your best to keep them dry, or you will be charged extra when you return the car.
Vieques horses
It won’t be long after your arrival to Vieques, that you will notice horses roaming all over the island. You will see them on the roadsides, by the beaches, in the town square – impossible to miss them. They basically have a free rein of the island. But even though it might seem like it, the horses are not wild, at least for the most part.
Most of the Vieques horses have a home, but a lot of owners lack the land for them to graze, so they take off looking for grass elsewhere. They tend to have their favorite spots and return home at the end of the day. And mo
It’s believed that Vieques horses are descendants of the Paso Fino horses, that were first brought to the island from Spain, back in the 16th century. They are now one of the most beautiful parts of Vieques and a draw to the island, as much as the beautiful beaches.
Things to do in Vieques, PR
Go beach hopping
Vieques has some of the best beaches in Puerto Rico and there are A LOT of them. And I guess because there are so many, none of them are crowded and most were completely empty when we visited.
Some of the best beaches on the island are located within Vieques National Wildlife Refuge. There are not far from each other, so it makes the beach hopping easy. This way you can visit more than one in a day, especially if you are going to be in Vieques for just a couple of days.
Keep in mind, that there are no facilities on most of the Vieques beaches. Be sure to bring drinks, snacks and whatever else you might need for the day or however long you plan to stay.
Even with a few days on the island, it’s impossible to visit all of them, but here are some of the best beaches in Vieques:
La Chiva – located within Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, La Chiva is considered by many one of the best beaches in Vieques. It’s wide with white sand and clear water. It’s a perfect beach for swimming. It was one of my personal favorites on the island.
Sun Bay Beach – this is one of the biggest and most popular Vieques beaches and the only one with an entry fee of $4. Although some people say, if you go early in the day, there’s often no one in the booth to collect it. Out of all the beaches in Vieques we visited, this was the one where we actually saw other people. As well as horses. Still, it’s big enough, so it’s easy to spread out.
Playa Caracas – another beauty within Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, one of the easier to access. White sand, beautiful clear water and supposed to have some decent snorkeling to the left. Great for picnicking, as there are pavilions with tables near the beach.
Pata Prieta – also known as Secret Beach, is small and tucked away at the end of a very bumpy road.
Playa Media Luna – this beach is in a bay, protected from winds, so the water is very calm and perfect for swimming. It’s also very shallow, so a great beach for those traveling to Vieques with kids.
El Cocal – a small, beautiful and often completely empty beach, perfect for a walk and to watch the sunset. There are a couple of swings for that perfect beach photo op. El Cocal is located in Esperanza, right across from The Vieques Guesthouse. There is a path from the parking area, that will get you to the beach in just a couple of minutes. There is big grass area by the beach, so you can often spot horses there.
Playa Negra – with black sand and spectacular views, this is one of the most beautiful beaches in Vieques. You go there more for the scenery than the swimming. To get to the beach, you first need to take an often-muddy path through the forest for about 10-15 minutes, but it will be worth the trek.
Punta Arenas – also known as Green beach, is located in the Northwestern part of the island. It’s the best spot to snorkel in Vieques, although the currents can be strong there.
Bioluminescent Bay Tour
If you’re going to do only one thing in Vieques, make sure it’s the kayaking tour of Bioluminescence Bay at night.
Vieques is home to Mosquito Bay, one of three Bioluminescent Bays in Puerto Rico. The other ones are Laguna Grande in Fajardo and La Parguera in Lajas. But Mosquito Bay is the brightest Bio Bay not just in Puerto Rico, but in the world. Before visiting Vieques I got a chance to experience bioluminescence in Holbox, Mexico, and while it was nice, it pales in comparison to Mosquito Bay.
But what is a Bioluminescence Bay? It’s basically a bay filled with tiny microorganisms, called dinoflagellates, that light up when the water around them is disturbed. As you kayak and paddle through the Bay or even run your hand through the water, the dinoflagellates start to glow, which is an unbelievable sight.
The darker the sky, the brighter the bioluminescence appears. So best time to do the bio bay tour is on the New Moon or as close to it as possible. You can use this Lunar calendar to plan it.
Sadly, it’s nearly impossible to photograph this amazing experience with your phone or even a good camera. You would need some serious equipment to capture this phenomenon.
The only way to do the Bio Bay Tour is with a guided tour and since it’s one of the top things to do in Vieques, there’s no shortage of companies to choose from. Most offer a couple of tours a night, at 7 pm and 9 pm, and they last about 1.5 hr. I booked our tour with Taino Aqua Adventures. Other highly rated local companies are Jak Watersports and Aqua Sunset Tours. I highly recommend booking with a company, that has transparent kayaks.
If you are visiting Vieques in high season, especially if it’s close to New Moon, I strongly recommend booking the Bio Bay tour in advance. It’s the number one Vieques attraction and many people travel to the island just to do the tour.
Go horseback riding on the beach
Another great way to enjoy Vieques beaches and lush landscape is to go horseback riding.
If horseback riding is something you’d like to do while on Vieques, a couple of great companies are Colón Horseback Riding (tours on the north side beaches) and Esperanza Riding Company (tours the hills and beaches on the south side). Both offer group tours as well as private rides.
Go on Sunset sail
If you enjoy getting out on the water, taking a sunset sailing trip is a great way to spend a couple of hours at the end of the day.
I booked a 2.5-hour sunset sail with Vieques Catamaran, which included drinks and snacks, which we enjoyed. Along with great coastline views and watching the sun set. The boat is a spacious catamaran, and Chris is a great host and a skilled sailor. He runs the sunset sail on Saturdays and Sundays only.
If you are traveling with a big group, you might also be able to book a private sail outside of the typical schedule. And if you happen to be in Vieques during Full Moon, Chris also does adult only Full Moon Cruises.
Go snorkeling
Vieques is not one of the top destinations when it comes to snorkeling, so don’t expect to see what you would in Belize or Cozumel, Mexico. But there are a couple of spots where you might see some fish or a sea turtle.
Punta Arena, also known as the Green Beach, is your best chance to see some sea life, especially sea turtles. The current there can be quite strong though, so I recommend going with a guide.
Crystal Clear Vieques, Blackbeard Sports and Salty Spirit are all local companies, that offer snorkeling tours. The first two do shore entry snorkeling, and Salty Spirit is a boat excursion. If you want to double up on the fun, this jet ski/snorkeling tour with Tropical Reef Watersports is a lot of fun.
If you want to go snorkeling on your own, a few spots worth trying are around the Mosquito Pier, Playa Pata Prieta and the old Pier in Esperanza.
Stop at Ceiba tree
The Ceiba tree is the National tree of Puerto Rico and when in Vieques, you can see a very impressive one, that is over 300 years old. The massive tree is close to Mosquito Pier and it’s part of a small park, that will often have roaming horses as well.
Whether you are heading to the Pier for some snorkeling or are exploring the northern part of the island, the Ceiba tree is a fun quick stop.
Visit Crab Island Rum Distillery
If you are a rum drinker, a stop at Crab Island Rum Distillery is one of the must things to do in Vieques. It’s a small, locally owned place and it’s the first distillery on Vieques.
You can enjoy some rum sampling or one of the many specialty cocktails. They have a small food menu as well, if you’d like to grab a bite to eat. Each Saturday, there’s also live music.
Crab Rum Distillery is only open from Thursday-Saturday, so plan accordingly.
Stop at Puerto Farro lighthouse
If you are looking for a non-beach activity in Vieques, Puerto Farro lighthouse (Faro de Puerto Ferro) is a great stop.
The lighthouse dates back to 1896 and played an important part in guiding merchant ships. It was in use until 1926 and has been abandoned ever since, which is now close to 100 years. The weather did its number, and the lighthouse is now pretty dilapidated. It’s roped off for safety, so you can’t go in, but it’s still a great spot to visit. Puerto Ferro sits on a cliff, so the views there are spectacular. Which is a good enough reason to put that on your Vieques itinerary.
There is also a small, beautiful beach around the corner from the lighthouse. You can access it via a small path and a boardwalk. The waves can be a bit rough there, so might not be the best for swimming.
To get to the lighthouse, enter the Vieques Wildlife Reserve (as you would go to beaches like La Chiva and Caracas), and take your very first right turn, which will be almost immediately after you enter. Drive down the dirt road until you see a small parking area. Once you park your car, the lighthouse is about a 10-minute walk from there via a gravel path.
If you go there, it’s important to stay on the path and not wander off.
Eat at food trucks
Eating out on Vieques can get a little pricey, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have a meal for cheap. There are many food trucks on the island, where you can get a snack or a small meal for just a few dollars.
In Esperanza, you can find food trucks right along the water, sort of across the street from El Blok hotel. We loved R&R barbeque and ate there a couple of times. Great mahi bites, pinchos and pulled pork sandwich was amazing. We never got to try, but everyone raves about tacos from Lizzy’s Lunchbox.
Also, if you are on the north side of the island, there’s a Vieques Food Park there, with several food trucks.
Stop at El Hombre de Puerto Ferro
If you are heading to Sun Bay beach, you can take a quick detour and stop at El Hombre de Puerto Ferro. It’s an archeological site, that looks kind of like the famous Stonehenge in England.
In 1991, archeologists discovered a skeleton of a 4,000-year-old man, buried at that spot, surrounded by huge boulders. It’s believed he was one of the first inhabitants of Puerto Rico, known as pre-Arawak. The remains are now at the Museo de Historia, Antropologia and Arte, but you can still see the massive boulders.
You don’t need more than 15 minute to visit and it’s worth a quick stop to see something different on the island. El Hombre de Puerto Ferro is right off the main 997 road, not far from the entrance to Sun Bay beach. As you head that way, there will be a sign on your left and a dirt road that leads to the site.
Enjoy sunset drinks at a Roof top bar
El Blok, one of the hotels in Esperanza, has a roof top bar on the 4th floor, with great 360 views of the island. It’s a great spot to get a drink and watch the sunset. The hotel is at end of Malecón, the waterfront boardwalk, so you have great views of the sea from the top. There is plenty of room and seating, even a small plunge pool.
The rooftop at El Blok is adults only and it’s open from Thursday to Sunday from 4pm-8pm.
Where to stay in Vieques
Vieques is not a destination where you will find resorts or even big hotels. Most of the accommodations on the island are guesthouses and boutique hotels. When it comes to location, the two most popular neighborhoods to stay in Vieques are Esperanza and Isabel II.
Esperanza is in the south of the island, on the Caribbean side. It has a Malecón, where you find several restaurants, bars and a couple of stores. It’s close to the bioluminescent bay, as well as many of the best beaches like La Chiva, Playa Caracas, Sun Bay and Playa Negra. Isabel II is located in the north of the island and it’s where the ferry arrives. It’s a much busier place with many restaurants, supermarkets, shops and banks. A lot of traffic as well.
I personally preferred Esperanza and enjoyed staying there for the duration of the trip.
The Vieques Guesthouse – this is where we stayed during our weeklong Vieques trip. The guesthouse is in an excellent location in Esperanza, a very short walk to town and all the restaurants. there. Playa El Cocal is just down the path across the street and several other Vieques beaches are within a short drive away. The guesthouse is reasonably priced, and the owners are very nice and always happy to share all kinds of information and tips. Fresh brewed coffee is available every day in the lobby and if you’d like to have breakfast, that is available daily for purchase.
Hacienda Tamarindo – beautiful boutique hotel, with just 17 rooms, located in the southern part of the island. The hotel sits up on the hilltop, so you can enjoy great ocean views from some of the rooms and the swimming pool. Breakfast is included. Several top Vieques beaches and restaurants in Esperanza are just a short drive away.
El Blok – adults only, modern hotel right in Esperanza town. There is a restaurant on site, Placita, and a rooftop bar perfect for sunset drinks.
Casa de Amistad Guesthouse – one of the top-rated places to stay in Isabel II. The guesthouse has 8 rooms, a swimming pool and lovely garden. It’s close to the ferry, restaurants, and the main square.
Where to eat in Vieques, PR
Kristy’s on the Caribe – great breakfast spot in Esperanza, right on the Malecón overlooking the Caribbean Sea. Cash only!
Tin Box – this half sushi half BBQ restaurant is definitely a unique concept, but it’s one of the best places to eat in Vieques. If you love sushi, go there, order Dragon’s Egg and thank me later. I’d go back to Vieques just to eat that one of piece sushi at Tin Box again.
Duffy’s and Bananas – a couple of fun spots with waterfront views in Esperanza.
Coqui Cafe – a popular spot in Isabel II, serving Mexican fusion. Make a reservation if you are visiting in high season, it’s a popular spot.
Lazy Jacks – if you need a drink/food after Bio Bay tour, this place stays open late. It’s right on the Malecon in Esperanza and has a fun local vibe.
Mar Azul – great spot in Isabel II with one of the best views.
Mango Taphouse – a place to try local craft beer.
Things to know about visiting Vieques
Passport – if you’re coming from the US, you do not need a passport. Since Puerto Rico is a US territory, you only need an ID to travel to the island.
Currency/Credit cards – currency used in Vieques is US dollar. Most places accept credit cards, but you will need some cash for food trucks and tips.
Language – the official language in Vieques, Puerto Rico is Spanish, but English is widely spoken, especially in restaurants and hotels.
Restaurants – a lot of restaurants in Vieques are closed some days of the week, so look up the opening times, if you want to try a particular place. Also, the opening times vary through the year and many restaurants and businesses close in off season. So, if that’s when you plan to travel, dining options will be limited.
Pre-book taxis – if you need a ride, it’s best to schedule your taxi in advance. Your guesthouse/hotel will most likely provide a list of trusted drivers to call. You can also use 741 app, which works like Uber.
Supermarkets -you can find the bigger supermarkets in Isabell II. In Esperanza, there are a couple of smaller stores. Remember this is an island of an island, so expect to pay more for everything. I found the prices of groceries etc. to be pretty high.
The island is expensive – I found Vieques to be on a pricey side. From the cost of eating out, car rental prices to even buying groceries. It is a small island, so I guess that’s expected. So definitely factor that in when planning your trip. Everything in Vieques will cost more than it does on the main island.
Gas stations – there are only 2 gas stations in Vieques, both in the Northern part of the island, not far from each other. So don’t venture out too far without a full tank of gas. They are open 7 days a week from 7 am-7 pm.
Day trip to Vieques
If you are planning a trip to Puerto Rico and are wondering if you can visit Vieques on a day trip, the answer is, technically, yes! If you take the first ferry out of Ceiba and return on the last one from Vieques, that gives you several hours to explore the island. But if you want to do the Bio Bay, one of the top Vieques attractions, you have to stay overnight. Even if you take the earlier tour at 7 pm, by the time it’s done, there are no more ferries to take you back to the main island.
So, while Vieques day trip is doable, I highly recommend spending at least one night. If you can swing a few days, that’s even better. This way you can explore more of the island and a nice, leisurely pace.
Is Vieques worth visiting?
Vieques is a beautiful island with a lot of natural beauty and many stunning, secluded and often empty beaches. It might seem like the perfect Caribbean Island getaway, and while it is for some, Vieques is definitely not for everyone.
As beautiful as the island is, it’s also undeveloped, rugged and very casual. It’s not commercialized like other Caribbean islands, even the main island of Puerto Rico. There are no big resorts or high-rise hotels. Some of the many beaches on Vieques take some work to get to.
So, if you are looking for beach front resorts, swim up bars, nightlife and entertainment, Vieques is not a place for you. Simply, because you won’t find any of this there. Staying on the main island is a better option.
But if you want a true tropical getaway without the massive crowds and have a sense of adventure, Vieques is absolutely worth visiting.
READ MORE:
- Things to do in Culebra – Puerto Rico’s laid back island
- Is Flamenco Beach worth the hype?
- 16 Fun Things to do in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
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