Last Updated on December 14, 2024
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From the shame of Italy to UNESCO World Heritage Site. Matera in Italy, is a city with a fascinating history and a place that has undergone one of the greatest transformations of all time. Located off the beaten path, in the Basilicata region of Southern Italy, the ancient city is completely carved from stone, making it one of the most unique destinations, not just in Italy, but in the world. Exploring the cave dwellings known as Sassi and getting lost in the maze of the cobblestone streets are just some of the things to do in Matera, that will make you feel like you entered a whole different world.
Matera was high on my wish list of places to visit in Italy from the moment I came across some pictures online a few years ago. So, when I was planning my trip to Puglia, I had to set aside a couple of days to do a side trip to Matera. I won’t lie, I went with very high expectations. Matera not only lived up to them, but far exceeded them. After spending 2 days in Matera, I can say that this is one of the most beautiful and unique cities I’ve ever seen.
The city is extremely photogenic and was used as a backdrop for several big movies like The Passion of the Christ, Wonder Woman and more recently the James Bond “No Time to Die“. That and being named the European Capital of Culture in 2019, gave Matera some exposure and attracted visitors.
So, if you are looking to visit a beautiful Italian city beyond the typical Rome, Florence or Venice, consider Matera. In this guide, you’ll find not only all the top things to do in Matera, but also tips on how to get there, where to stay and some restaurant recommendations.
A Brief History of Matera
Before I list all the best things to do in Matera, it’s only appropriate to, briefly, go over Matera’s history. And it’s a fascinating one.
Matera is one of the longest continuously inhabited cities in the world with Archeological evidence shows human settlements going back to Paleolithic period. It’s known for its caves, where people lived for more than 9,000 years. The city was thriving up until the 20th century, when overpopulation and overcrowding caused people to live in extreme poverty and unsanitary conditions.
People lived in the caves with their often big families, sharing one room with animals in filth, with no running water or electricity. The appalling conditions were a breeding ground for many diseases like malaria and the mortality rate was skyrocketing. This has been going on as recently as in the 1950s until the book “Christ stopped at Eboli” by Carlo Levi brought attention to the poverty and deplorable living conditions in Matera. The city was called the shame of Italy.
The government intervened and forced people to move from the caves to the new homes they built for them outside of the city. The caves were cleared out and the Sassi became a ghost town for a couple of decades.
Things started turning around in the 80s, when the descendants of the original inhabitants decided to salvage the Sassi, started moving back in and renovate. By 1993, UNESCO declared Matera a World Heritage Site and the cave dwellings were turned into beautiful boutique hotels, museums and restaurants. In 2019, Matera was named the European Capital of Culture, which put Matera on the map and the city started getting more popular with visitors.
Where is Matera
Matera is located in the Basilicata region in Italy, which is right next to Puglia. It’s basically right over the border, which is why most people visit Matera as either a day trip from Bari or part of a Puglia Road trip. It’s also why many people mistakenly think of Matera being part of Puglia.
The closest airport is in Bari in Puglia (Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport), which is less than an hour away by car.
How to get to Matera, Italy
Matera is kind of remote and not close to anything, so getting there requires a little extra effort. Your first step is to fly to Bari in Puglia, which is the closest airport. Bari is about 65 km (40 miles) from Matera, and it takes anywhere from under one hour to 2 hours to get there, depending on your mode of transportation.
Getting to Matera by car
By far, the easiest way to get from Bari to Matera is by car and the drive takes just under one hour. Just be aware, that the parking situation in Matera can be a bit of a challenge. If your hotel is in the Sassi area, you will have to park in a parking lot outside of the Old Town. Most of the Sassi is ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato or Limited Traffic Area), meaning you cannot drive there. If you do, you are risking a hefty fine, as the area is monitored by cameras. A lot of hotels work with parking lots outside of the Old Town and provide shuttles to and from.
Getting to Matera by bus
If you don’t want to rent a car, getting from Bari to Matera by using public transportation is possible, it just takes longer. Your options are either a bus, which leaves from the bus station just outside of Bari Centrale train station or the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (FAL) train. The bus is a quicker and direct ride, but once you get to Matera, you’ll be about 2 km outside of the city center. You’ll need a taxi ride or will have to walk close to 30 minutes uphill.
Getting to Matera by train
The train takes longer, almost 2 hours, and often requires a change in Altamura, but Matera Centrale train station is a very short walk to the Old Town. So even though the train is slow (typical for Southern Italy), it gets you much closer to Matera’s center. Taking that Bari to Matera train is, however, very confusing to many people, and here’s why.
Trains to Matera are operated by a small company called Ferrovie Appulo Lucane, not Trenitalia. The most confusing part is finding the FAL train, as they don’t leave from the main Bari Centrale train station, but from a separate one close by. If you come out of Bari Centrale, FAL train station will be on the left side of the square in this exact spot (grey building with a sign Ferrovie Nord Barese on top).
To make things more complicated, while you can buy your tickets there, this is not where the train to Matera leaves from. To access the upper platform the Bari-Matera trains operate from, you need to walk to the building next door, which looks like a small convenience store from the outside. If you look closely, there is a sign Ferrovie Appulo Lucane right above the door, but it’s very easy to miss. When you walk in, go down the hallway, which will lead you to Platform 1.
You can check the timetable and buy tickets on Ferrovie Appulo Lucane website, but it’s not really necessary to purchase tickets in advance. Just show up a few minutes earlier and buy them in person at one of the automatic machines. It costs €6 one way. Hold on to your ticket, as you will need to scan it to exit the Matera Central station.
If you want to travel to Matera from other places in Puglia like Monopoli, Polignano al Mare or Lecce, you first need to take a train to Bari, then go from there.
How much time to spend in Matera, Italy
The way most people visit Matera is as a day trip from Puglia. It’s one of the most popular day trips from Bari, Monopoli or Polignano Al Mare. Visiting from any of these places will give you enough time to walk around the Old Town, explore both Sassi, have a meal and basically get the idea what Matera is all about. But if you have the time, I strongly recommend spending at least one night in Matera.
The city is beautiful during the day, but seeing Matera at night, all lit up is magical. It’s actually one of the most spectacular cities to see at night. And it’s also very quiet, with all the tours and day trippers gone. If you go just for the day and see how stunning it is, you will later regret not staying longer.
A day trip to Matera also means, that you will be there with all the other day trippers and many group tours. Basically, during the busiest time.
In conclusion, I think spending two nights in Matera is ideal. And if your schedule doesn’t allow it, stay at least one night.
Things to do in Matera, Italy
Explore Sassi di Matera
In Italian sassi means stone, and in Matera the word refers to two neighborhoods of stone dwellings: Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Baresano. Sasso Barisano is more developed of the two, most of the caves were turned into beautiful boutique hotels, restaurants, cafes and shops. Sasso Caveoso is less polished and where you can still find many abandoned cave houses.
One of the top things to do in Matera and simply walk around the Sassi and explore both neighborhoods. It’s easy to do on your own, at your own pace, just by wandering around. It’s especially enjoyable, if you have no time restrains and can take random streets and alleys and see where you end up.
But if you are short on time and you are unfamiliar with Matera’s history, it might be a good idea to join a walking tour. I think the history of the city is so fascinating, it will really add more essence to your visit.
Whether you walk around on your own, or with a tour, get ready for some serious exercise. Matera is not big but very hilly with lots of stairs. Bring comfortable shoes and don’t even attempt to walk in high heels.
Visit Casa Noha
Casa Noha is a small place in an old cave house and a great first stop on your visit to Matera. They show a 25-minute video about the history of the city throughout the years. It’s good to see it before you start wandering the streets of Matera, so you have a better idea of what you are seeing and have an understanding of the city’s past. Especially if you don’t plan on doing any walking tours. Well worth the entrance fee.
Other than the movie, there isn’t anything else in there to see, so it’s a quick visit and won’t take up much of your time. You can find Casa Noha not far from the Duomo, so you can plan a visit to the Cathedral after.
Casa Noha is open every day except on Tuesdays and the entrance fee is €6.50.
Piazza Vittorio Venetto
This is the main square in Matera and a great place to grab a coffee or a drink and do some people watching. You’ll see not just other tourists, but also lots of locals come here in the morning to get their coffee. There are several cafes in the square, but one I especially enjoyed was Bar Caffe Tripoli. Great coffee and a nice, covered terrace outside.
Vittorio Venetto is also where you will find a couple of Matera attractions, like Tre Archi viewpoint and Palombaro Lungo.
Visit a Cave House Museum
To get a visual idea of what life in Matera looked like back in the day, visit one of the Cave Museums. They are set up to recreate a typical cave house from before they were abandoned, with all the furnishings, tools and decorations.
There are several of those cave houses turned museums in the city and while I think it’s one of the must things to do in Matera, you certainly don’t need to visit all of them. They are very similar, so seeing one is enough to give you an idea.
I stumbled upon Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario while walking around and that’s the one I visited. Because of its central location, it’s one of the most popular and visited ones.
The entrance is €5, and you get a QR code, which gives you access to the audio guide on your phone. If you happen to walk by it, I definitely recommend making a stop at Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario. Or any other cave museum you find. Casa Grotta “C’eva Una Volta” Antica Matera and Casa Grotta del Casalnuovo are a couple of other options.
Visit Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris
Matera is home to around 150 churches. Naturally, with just a couple of days, you will not be able to visit all of them, but definitely plan to include a couple in your Matera itinerary. The city is especially known for so called Rupestrian churches (chiesa rupestre), which is a fancy word for rock. These churches have been literally carved into the rock.
One of them, that is a must visit, is Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris. It’s a small church, carved into a rock and built into a cliff. Its outside appearance is unique and quite spectacular. It’s quite a sight, especially from the distance. The inside of the church is tiny, but worth visiting to see the crypt and the frescoes. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside.
Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris sits on top of a small hill, in the upper part of Sassi Barisano. The climb up is well worth not just to see the church, but also for the viewpoint in front of it. From right outside of the church, you get amazing panoramic views of the Sassi. It was probably one of my favorite viewpoints in Matera.
Best time for photography in that spot is in the morning, when the lighting is perfect. In the afternoon, you’ll be shooting into the sun. In the mornings, you can also enjoy it with barely anyone there.
Also, be sure to walk to the back of the church, where you can enjoy great views of the Ravine. That spot on the other hand is best photographed in the afternoon.
Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris is open daily from 10 am- 4 pm and it costs €4 to enter.
If you plan on visiting more than one Rock church, you can save money by buying a combined ticket that includes 2 or 3 churches.
Stop at Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso
Right below Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris is another beautiful church, that is worth stopping by. Chiesa di San Pierto Caveoso might not be one of the Rock churches, but it’s quite impressive with its Baroque facade and location right on the edge of the canyon.
The church is free to visit, so be sure to step inside and see the interior as well. Unlike other churches, it’s rather simple, but has a really beautiful ceiling.
In front of the church is a small Piazza with amazing views of the city. Don’t miss the lookout to the left of the church entrance.
Visit other churches in Matera
There are many more churches in Matera, both Rupestrian and traditional ones.
- Chiesa del Purgatorio – this Baroque style church is one of the most unique churches in Matera. It was built as a place to pray for souls trapped in purgatory. The church is especially known for its skull adorned doors.
- Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista – built in Romanesque style, with Gothic and Arabic influences. It’s located a short walk from Piazza Vittorio Venetto and is free to enter.
- Chiesa San Pietro Barisano – this Rupestrian church is one of the oldest in Matera, dating back to the 12th century. It has a €4 entry fee, but if you plan on visiting other Rock churches, you can get a combo ticket and save money.
- Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – beautiful Baroque church dating back to 13th century. Located in the busy square Piazza San Francesco. Free to enter.
Viewpoints in Matera
Matera is a very hilly city, so there are many spots with amazing views of the Sassi. And enjoying the spectacular views is one of the best and free things to do in Matera. You can find many lookouts and viewpoints, known as Belvederes all over the city, and here are some of the ones not to miss:
- Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio detto dei “Tre Archi”– located in Piazza Vittorio, this is one of the most popular Belvederes. It’s a good one to visit at sunrise.
- Belvedere Di Piazzetta Pascoli -this is an iconic spot for great panoramic views of Matera.
- Piazza del Duomo – the Cathedral sits in the highest point of the city, and there is a plaza right in front of it with great panoramic views of Matera.
- Piazza in front of Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris – this was one of my favorite viewpoints in Matera. Visit in the morning for best light. Then go around the back of the church for views of the Ravine.
- Piazza San Pietro Caveoso – this small square right in front of Chiesa San Pietro Caveoso has similar views of the Sassi like those from in front of Idris, but also great views of the Ravine from a lookout on the side.
- Belvedere San Pietro Barisano – this viewpoint is on left side of the tower of Chiesa di San Pietro Barisano. You get a great view of the Sassi and the Cathedral.
- Belvedere Convento di Sant’ Agostino – from this spot you get to enjoy a panoramic view of both the Sassi and the Ravine.
- Belvedere di Murgia Timone – this viewpoint requires a hike across the ravine as it’s located in the park across. The views will be well worth your efforts. You can see the entire Old Town of Matera from there. The lighting is best in the morning.
Here’s a map of all the Matera viewpoints mentioned above.
Have an Aperitivo with a view
When you are ready for a break from walking around, make an Aperitivo stop at one of the bars with a view. Sit down and spend some time taking in the view.
I accidently stumbled upon Crialoss, a cave cafe with a beautiful terrace, and it turned out to be a place with one of the best views of Matera. I had no trouble getting one of the outdoor tables, but you might want to make a reservation for later in the day. I imagine this place gets full quickly, especially around sunset or after dark.
Crialoss is part of Palazzo degli Abati hotel and this is the exact spot, if you’d like to find it.
Visit the Cathedral
Cattedrale di Santa Maria della Bruna e di Sant’Eustachios, also known as Duomo, sits in the highest point of the city and can be seen from pretty much anywhere in Matera. The Cathedral was built in the 13th century in Apulian Romanesque Style. While the exterior is rather simple, the interior is very opulent, one might say even over the top.
A couple of things, that especially stand out is the rose window, a beautiful ceiling and a large Nativity scene to the side of the main Altar.
Right outside of the Cathedral, there is a small plaza with a great lookout point over the Sassi.
You can visit the Cathedral daily from 9 am-6.30 pm (hours may slightly differ on a Sunday) and the entrance costs €3.50.
Visit a Museum
Personally, I’m not a huge museum person, but if you are, there are a few in Matera you might enjoy. If you are wondering what to do in Matera on a rainy day, here are some ideas:
- MUSMA – Museo della Scultura Contemporanea or Museum of Mueum of Contemporary Sculpture is located in Palazzo Pomarici. It holds a collection of modern sculptures.
- MOOM – Matera Olive Oil Museum can only be visited on a guided tour, which need to be booked at least 3 days in advance. You can make your reservations online here.
- Museo Laboratorio della Civilta Contadina or Laboratory Museum of Rural Life – if you were going to visit one museum in Matera, make it this one. It has 30 exhibition rooms full of original photos and artifacts on display providing great insight into the lives of people who lived in Matera several decades before.
- MateraSum Ipogeo – an underground museum, where you get to explore the caves, tunnels and where people lived years ago. It’s one of the lesser-known Matera attractions, but worth a visit for another history lesson. Entrance fee is €7, and you can visit either with a guide or download an audio guide on your phone.
Explore Palombaro Lungo
In Matera, spring water was collected in huge underground cisterns called palombari, and was later used as drinking water by people who lived there. Palombaro Lungo, located under Piazza Vittorio Veneto, is the largest cistern in town, dating back to the 16th century. It’s 16 meters deep and 50 meters long and could once hold 5 million liters of water.
Today visitors can go underground and walk the elevated platform. They have pamphlets in different languages with some information, just as you enter. Palombaro Lungo makes for an interesting stop and it’s yet another look at how people lived in Matera back in the day. It won’t take you more than 15 minutes to walk through.
Palombaro Lungo is open every day from 9.30 am-1 pm and 3-6.30 pm (these are summer hours, might be a bit shorter off season). It costs €3 to enter.
Try Matera bread
Matera is famous for its bread. Pane di Matera is made with durum wheat, yeast and water using ancient methods, which gives it a more yellow color and thick crust. It’s higher in protein and lower in gluten. You can enjoy it in a sandwich or bruschetta. You probably are going to get a small basket of it with your meal anyway.
You can also learn how to make Matera bread in this bread making workshop in a local bakery.
Enjoy local cuisine
Besides the bread, there are a few other local specialties you should try while in Matera. One of my favorites was Peperoni Cruschi. It’s a sweet, sun-dried red pepper, that is later fried to make it crunchy. You can find it in any restaurant, and it’s used either as garnish, or you can order a bowl of it as a snack or side dish.
Another local dish is Crapiata, which is a hearty soup made with legumes, grains and vegetables. Perfect on a chilly night, although locals eat it even on a hot summer day.
I didn’t get to try Pignata, but that’s another classic dish in Matera. It’s a kind of stew cooked in ceramic pot, made with meat, vegetables and cheese, often covered with bread. It’s cooked slowly over many hours.
There are also a lot of local cheeses and cured meats, as well as delicious wines of course.
If you are in Matera for a short time, a food tour is a great way to sample several local dishes in one day. Or if you want to take it a step further, you can also get more hands on and take a cooking class in a cave restaurant.
See Matera at night
If you think Matera is stunning during the day, wait to see it at night. As soon as the sun starts setting, the lights and lanterns come on, making this already beautiful city look absolutely magical. It has to be one of the most spectacular cities to see at night.
Matera at night is also way less crowded with all the tours and day trippers gone. I cannot encourage you enough to spend at least one night in the city.
If you are interested, there are also some night guided tours like this one.
Spend a night in a Cave hotel
During Matera’s transformation, many of the caves were turned into beautiful boutique hotels. If you are planning to stay in Matera overnight, I highly recommend staying in one, ideally with a terrace. It’s such a great and unique experience, one you cannot have in many places of the world. You will not regret it.
There are plenty of cave hotels in Matera, from moderately prices to really luxurious ones. Many have either private or shared terraces, so you can enjoy Look for one with a terrace, so you can enjoy those beautiful views. Corte San Pietro, Sextantio Le Grotte Della Citiva and Sant’Angelo are just a few highest rated cave hotels in Matera.
I spent two nights in L’Infinito dei Sassi and it was everything I needed for my stay. Location was perfect, I had a beautiful view right outside of my door and the room was very comfortable. It was hands down one of my top things to do in Matera, Italy.
Hike Murgia Materana Park
If walking up and down the stairs wasn’t enough exercise, you can get to the other side of the canyon and do some hiking. Right across the Ravine is Murgia Materana Park (Parco della Murgina Materana), where you will find Rupestrian churches, cave dwellings, several hiking trails and one of the best viewpoints in Matera: Belvedere di Murgia Timone.
The trail #406 to Murgia Matera Park starts at Porta Pistola, which eventually leads to Ponte Tibetano della Gravina. The Suspension Bridge gets you to the other side and it’s an attraction on its own.
One of the highlights of the Murgia Materana Park is Belvedere di Murgia Timone, the viewpoint with the most spectacular panoramic view of the Sassi. For the best lighting, I recommend going there in the morning. If you don’t want to or have no time to hike, but want to check out the viewpoint, it’s possible to get to Belvedere di Murgia Timone by car.
Plan on 2-3 hours at the park, depending on your speed and how many stops you make. The hike there and exploring the Park is very easy to do on your own, but if you prefer a more guided visit, there are also tours like this one to book.
Tips for visiting Matera, Italy
Wear Comfortable shoes – walking around Matera is not the easiest, not only because of the hills, but it’s also made out of very slippery white lime stones. Especially after it rains. Wear your most comfortable shoes, preferably with good traction.
Get ready for many steps and hills – Sassi of Matera is a very hilly area with many steps. Be ready to climb many of them. For this reason, Matera is not a great destination for people with mobility issues.
Parking – if you plan to arrive in Matera by car, you should be aware of the parking situation in the city. If your hotel is in the Sassi area, in the ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato or Limited Traffic Area), you will have to park in a parking lot outside of the area and walk/shuttle to your hotel. Traffic restrictions are very common in the center of many Italian cities and towns like Pisa, Lucca or Florence.
Where to eat in Matera, Italy
La Latteria – this former grocery store turned restaurant was recommended to me by a local. It was a great place to grab lunch, so I’m passing on the recommendation. You can try typical meats, cheeses, salads and delicious local wine. It’s a perfect spot for lunch or a quick snack. It’s located steps away from Chiesa di Santa Chiara and Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli. Great cozy place with an outdoor terrace. Not to miss in Matera!
Le Bacantti – if you are looking for some fine dining in Matera, this is a great restaurant in a cave.
Osteria MateraMi – great little place with amazing food. Both seafood and traditional dishes. Perfect location and views from their outdoor terrace are outstanding.
Panifico Paoluccio – a great bakery with the best focaccia in town.
Crialoss – a great place for an Aperitivo with one of the best views of Matera.
I Vizi degli Angeli – if you are looking for a gelato break, this is a great place to go to.
Where to stay in Matera, Italy
Now that you’ve made the excellent decision to stay in Matera overnight, staying in a cave hotel is a must. It’s just an amazing experience and it will make your visit to Matera extra special. There are many cave hotels to choose from, all depends on your budget.
L’Infinito dei Sassi – this is where I stayed during my 2 days in Matera. It’s a guest house with several rooms and beautiful views of the Sassi from the terrace. The location is very convenient, just a 10-minute walk to Matera Centrale train station and steps away from Piazza Vittorio Venetto. Rooms come with breakfast you can have at one of two cafes in the square. Great value for money.
Palazzo degli Abati – a beautiful family run hotel in an unbeatable location, right above the San Pietro Barisano church. They have both cave rooms and regular rooms, and they all come with private terraces. One of the hotel’s highlights is the onsite bistro Crialoss with a terrace, which has one of the best views in Matera.
II Belvedere – mid range hotel located on the edge of the Sassi, with a mix of both cave and regular rooms. Because of its location, you get an amazing view of the entire city and the ravine.
Sant’Angelo – if you don’t mind a splurge, this luxurious hotel is one of the best in Matera. It’s in the central location, convenient for exploring the city and offering amazing views of Piazza San Pietro Caveoso and Murgia Park.
READ MORE:
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